Bleu De Travail: A French Chore Coat Deep Dive
"Some things just never go out of style"
During the research for this piece, I compiled quite the image library. Therefore I created an archive here for anyone curious, or wanting to reuse any images featured. I don’t own the right to any images unless stated otherwise.
Chore coat, baker’s jacket, sack coat, engineer’s coat; there are many names for it, but if you’re reading this there’s a good chance you have one in your closet right now, or at least something similar. The French chore coat is a loose-fitting, mid-weight, durable coat with (usually) one pocket at the chest, and two large pockets at the hips. A traditional chore coat comes with a pointed collar and button closure, known for its simple construction and lack of any front dart (this is where the term “sack” comes from). But what chores is it for? Why are they blue? Who designed it? For what purpose? Well, I’d like to invite you to come along on a journey into the deep *blue* depths that is the story of the chore coat. Welcome, I’m glad you could make it.
Début
Most of our clothing items are some sort of evolution from something that was originally designed decades ago. Few garments however, have been around as long as the chore coat, the 100+ year old design has been reinterpreted and remodeled throughout history into what it is today. What you can see today on runways across the world, was once a garment meant only for the working class, at the bottom of French society. But who made it first?
Moleskine
Turns out, that answer is not so simple. By the end of the 19th century, France had become fully industrialized, and that meant that a large portion of the population was no longer working in fields, but factories instead. As the jobs got more complex so did the worker’s clothes in order to remain functional. With the transition from agricultural to industrial jobs, occupations like farming, mining, railway and steel workers required tougher clothing; much tougher than the homemade clothing made from rags that they were used to. This is when we are first introduced to fabrics like cotton drill and “moleskine”, both of which were very hard to produce until the invention of industrial fabric looms and large-scale production of textiles and apparel. Moleskin is a densely woven cotton fabric with a brushed surface made to look like suede or as the name states- the skin of a mole. The primary advantages of using moleskin or toile de chine [chinese cloth] are its tough construction and long lasting qualities, like its resistance to friction and its lack of creasing. It’s important to note that even though moleskin is still widely used today as a cheaper substitute for suede, back then it was simply the best available option to make hard-wearing clothes. At the time, less rips and holes meant less patchwork for the wife back at home.
Bleu de Travail
At first, “veste en moleskine” [moleskin jacket] were made from whatever moleskin fabric was available and dyed in whichever dye could be acquired. However here’s when we reach the next milestone in apparel production: the introduction of indigo, benzoate and hydrone. Each of these chemical dyes, specially indigo, were very rare in the centuries prior and were exclusively for the rich and wealthy. Thanks again to globalization, these commodities became affordable for the average person and this is when the term “Bleu de travail” [work blues] starts being used for the classification of workwear along with the working class. This is where the term “blue collar work” comes from in the west. You might think that the decision to designate blue as the color of the working class was random, however there is a deeper meaning for this. Throughout history, the color blue has always been associated with royalty and wealth, “blue blood” and “royal blue” were common terms during the middle ages to separate people. Blue dyes, gems and textiles were considered a luxury due to their rareness and high cost to obtain them. Therefore the color has always represented an aspiration for the have-nots and a source of status for the haves. So this appropriation of blue by the new working class marked a shift in the societal hierarchy of France. No tot mention the meaning of blue to the French people, symbolizing the city of Paris in the French flag. Practically speaking, the color blue became both cheap to produce and efficient at masking the stains of daily work.
Production de masse
By the early 20th century, apparel had started to become mass produced and the French chore coat had spread to every industrial job in France. It was only a matter of time until workwear specific clothing manufactures started to emerge. Most notably, Le Mont Saint Michel, who was the first company to start mass producing the French chore coat in the town of Pontorson, between Bretagne and Normandy in 1913. This is also where we see the introduction of the interior breast pocket, usually on the right side of the chest. While the outer pockets were commonly used for tools, spare parts and tobacco, the interior pocket was meant for valuable items such as identification, a pocket watch or money. Le Mont Saint Michel used this feature as a method of quality assurance by stitching their label on the outside of the interior pocket. This would become a common feature among workwear brands like Vetra, Le Laboureur and Adolphe Lafont, all of which are still around to this day
Venant en Amérique
It was only a matter of time before the Americans decided to take the idea of the French chore coat and make it their own. But if there’s one thing Americans perfected around this time, it was workwear. Companies like The Boss & Pointer Brand, Levi Strauss & Co and of course- Carhartt were all founded towards end of the 19th century. Levi’s started to produce their version as early as 1890, named the “Sack Coat”, originally made from denim. Other brands around this time also started experimenting with fabrics like herringbone twill and sailcloth drill until 1928 when Carhartt started producing their “Engineer’s Sack Coat” in duck canvas. Carhartt continued to reinvent the sack coat throughout the 1900’s with features like the corduroy collar, riveted pockets, triple stitched seams and blanket lining. By the 1960’s, the now called “Michigan Coat” from Carhartt was almost unrecognizable from the soft-feeling, blue-dyed Bleu de Travail, but like most things in life, it needed to evolve.
Les artistes
Throughout the 20th century we saw many artists gravitate to workwear as both a practical clothing choice and a way to align themselves with the working class. Art and workwear have always had a close relationship, with the artist using the hard wearing clothes as en extension of their profession, often staining and smudging their clothes completely, making them a part of the art process itself. During my research, I came across several examples of famous artists utilizing the chore coat in their own line of work. Unsurprisingly, the front pockets of a chore coat are perfect for paintbrushes and other art supplies. However, what did surprise me was that renown Mexican painter Diego Rivera, husband of Frida Kahlo, can be seen wearing a denim chore coat in various photographs, showing just how prevalent this garment was at the time.
Culture de rue
The chore coat remained a staple of blue collar workers, artists and the working class up until the 80’s and 90’s with the introduction of bleach and acid washing. But it was another movement that brought workwear to the forefront of popular culture: hiphop. Like countless other trends in fashion, music and art, workwear is staple in fashion thanks to people of color. The 1990’s was a renaissance for black culture as a whole and with it came the formal introduction of streetwear into the fashion world. Rappers like Tupac Shakur, Eazy-E and Biggie were all big fans of Carhartt and workwear as a whole. Although from opposite coasts, the ruggedness of clothes reflect the harsh upbringing that was growing up in Long Beach or Brooklyn at the time. To this day, workwear is still a pinnacle of streetwear culture and it continues to be reinterpreted by newer generations.
Monsieur Bill Cunningham
Throughout my research, one figure kept coming up in all the articles I read. His name was Bill Cunningham, a New York Times photographer, journalist and documentarian who documented New York City youth culture and style for 40 years. Originally a Harvard dropout, Mr. Cunningham had an eye for capturing people that few possess, he truly embodied street photography. He was known for roaming the city streets in his iconic Biria bicycle, black shoes, khaki chinos and even more iconic: a Bleu de Travail French work coat. Supposedly picked up in France for $20, this was the uniform for Bill; he ran his own column on the times since 1987 until his passing in 2016. Bill was a legend in the street style photography scene, and he was even honored with his own immersive exhibition during NYFW 2021. Oddly enough, street style photography is a hobby I’ve taken on recently so it was very inspiring to read about Bill’s life and see his work.
Mode de Rue
I wanted to share some images that I found on the internet of some very stylish individuals sporting a chore coat in their own ways. Needless to say there’s thousands of pictures of people styling a chore coat but here are some cool ones I found. If you need further inspiration I highly suggest consulting Pinterest.
Marché vintage
Nowadays, the chore coat is ubiquitous in both men’s and women’s fashion. You can find it anywhere from the latest Gucci women’s collection to your local Walmart, and at every price point in between. There are countless brands reimagining the chore coat today, however we can all agree that true vintage will always reign supreme. Due to the level of mass production throughout the 20th century, there is a limitless supply of vintage chore coats in all colors, makers, eras and conditions. This is the beauty of the vintage French chore coat, each one is practically 1 of 1, meaning you will never find another one with the same fade, rips, patches, buttons, alterations and stains ever again. And if you do, well maybe you should consider starting a vintage reselling business. Some of the best places to look for chore coats in America are Etsy, Grailed and Ebay, and if you’re lucky enough then maybe your local vintage shop. Gem was another great website I came across that gathers all listings for an item or category from across the internet. So if you enjoy mindlessly browsing clothes like me, this site is for you, and its available in app as well. (not paid promo)
Réinterprétations
Now if you’re not a particular fan of vintage clothing or simply don’t have the time and patience to endlessly search for the perfect one, well I’ve got you covered. The current menswear environment is also stacked with dozens of both heritage and new brands putting their own spin on the French chore coat. The signature details remain: pointed collar, button closure and big patch-pockets, however there is no shortage of colors, patterns, textures, fabrics, and prices. One thing is true, the chore coat as survived the test of time due to its utilitarian design and timelessness. One of my personal favorites is Paynter Jacket, founded in 2019. Paynter Jacket’s mission is to reduce waste in the fashion industry and offer customers the experience of slow-fashion by only releasing their jackets 4 times year in limited quantities. Brands like RRL, Tellason and Orslow focus on replicating the chore coat as authentically as possible, while others aim to completely redefine it. I personally think this is where the fun comes in, there’s almost as much design variation in the modern chore coat as there is detail variation in the vintage market. So depending on what you’re looking for, and how much you’re looking to spend, I’ve gathered a a few of my favorites to hopefully set you on the right path.
Mon armoire
I purchased my first chore coat about 2 years ago. Without knowing anything about the deep history of this garment, it simply just stood out to me on a rack. I realized is practically everyone’s relationship to clothes when it comes to shopping, we see it on a rack/ website and we find it appealing. We don’t know the history, the (original) designer or the time period from which it came, we buy things because we like them. And there’s something special about that, it’s ok to mindlessly shop and enjoy clothes for what they are right now, in front of us.
As I wore my first chore coat, I grew more and more fond of the old-school work aesthetic it had, then I got my second one, and finally- my third. The latest of which is what really inspired me to delve deep into the history of this garment and write this piece. It reminded me that virtually every item we see today, in our closet, on a rack or online are all derivatives of designs from decades ago, with a real purpose. Granted the clothes still serve a purpose today even if it’s simply to look good. But there is something fascinating about learning the history of how an article of clothing can come from the industrial beginnings of France and end up in every corner of the world, helping people look and feel cool. Now I present to you- my personal chore coat collection:
My first chore coat, a collaboration from H&M and Lee. I was originally hesitant about H&M denim quality, however, this collaboration from 2021 focused on sustainability and classic styles. Inspired by denim workwear of the 80’s and 90’s (as previously explored), this coat is made of a cotton and hemp blend. Other items in the collection featured 100% recycled cotton and TENCEL’s Lyocell fabric, a cotton-alternative made from wood cellulose. Overall this coat is very well constructed and can still be found online for cheap.
This gem was purchased from Stag Provisions in downtown Dallas. The Kyoto Work jacket from Universal Works blends the retro style of a lightweight, indigo chore with the Japanese Noragi style of top traditionally reserved for farmers during the Edo period. Made in Portugal from washed indigo herringbone denim (DYK: “herringbone” refers to the zig-zag pattern of the fabric which resembles the skeleton of a herring fish). The quality and finish of this piece is outstanding and introduced me into the world of Universal Works which is one of my favorite brands to this day. This jacket does feel more like an overshirt since its the lightest out of the three.
And finally, the piece that inspired this project. I am actually the second owner of this vintage coat which is an original German chore coat from from the 60’s-70’s that was reworked by Underachiever High, now known as Bleeding Indigo . Based on an original RAL-TESTAT chore coat, “Testat” meaning attestation in German and “RAL” referring to the Reich Institute of Delivery Conditions in Germany, founded in 1925 (I promise this is not a Nazi jacket). The inside tag is barely legible but also contains the word “berufskleidung” which translates to workwear in German. Basically meaning RAL-Certified for good quality and durability, this coat is in amazing condition.
The indigo dye has faded over the years into the iconic purple-ish hue on the shoulders and arms signifying years of hard work. It features a fabric cover over the button closure for extra protection, three large pockets on the outside and one on the inside. Here is where Underachiever High, ran by Bartel Kreemers, worked their magic. By reworking the outer pockets with boro-style patchwork, sashiko stitching and vintage fabrics, creating a one-of-a-kind, beautiful garment. I was amazed by this piece when I came across it, and even more excited when I was able to get it for a fraction of the original price. You can still find some of his old work on Grailed as well as Bleeding Indigo which drops both cut-and-sewn and repurposed pieces more frequently.
Wear Are We: amis
Finally, I’d like to close this out by providing some insights from some homies. From the start I knew one person I needed to tap in for this segment, since we’ve had several conversations about chore coats before this blog was even a thing. Then I realized just how many people I follow and chat with actually own some version of a chore coat. That’s when I noticed the impact this garment has had on fashion as a whole, almost everyone has some sort of chore/work/baker’s/engineer coat in their closet and might not even realize it. So if this includes you, feel free to add or comment what you have in your closet. Without further ado, here’s the WAW friends & family segment.
Where/ when did you buy your vintage chore coat?
“I got my chore back in late 2021 or early 2022. A friend of mine gave me a tip on where exactly to go looking for one and, sure enough, I found one that looked perfect for me at a price point I was happy with.”
Do you know the maker/age?
“All of the tags have been worn/ aged to a degree where they’re illegible unfortunately. Despite that, the prior owner did label the piece as one from the 1940s.”
How do you usually style it?
“The climate I’m in is a rather warm one, so I use it as a light top layer, as you would a flannel or general overshirt. Usually, I’ll throw it on top of a tee or waffle knit layer with some denim. If you find one for a fair value, I’d suggest grabbing one. My personal one is constructed with herringbone twill and has 3 or 4 pockets on the front side. It’s a great addition to my wardrobe and I’m positive it would benefit everyone else’s wardrobe as well.”
Why do you think it’s still around in the menswear scene?
“Honestly, it’s one of those pieces that can’t fail you. They’re simple, versatile, utilitarian-esque, and clearly stand the test of time. Like a Porsche or a pair of Levi’s 501s, some things just never go out of style.”
-Jon from Second Lake
Where/ when did you buy your chore coat?
I got mine last year from a department store in late spring and was able to wear it throughout the season and into the early summer as well. I’m still on the hunt for a perfect vintage faded indigo-looking chore coat, but this is a great placeholder for now. I’m sure I’ll even wear it after acquiring my “grail” coat.
How do you style it usually?
White tee for casual looks, a light oxford for something a bit more dressed up.
Why do you think it’s still around in the menswear scene?
Versatility, easy styling, durability, pockets.
-Arun aka @604arun
Where/ when did you buy your chore coat?
I bought my chore coat in 2021 on the Walmart website. It’s from Free Assembly and I caught it for $10 so I figured I couldn’t lose anything if it was terrible. Turns out it’s one of my favs.
How do you style it usually?
I like styling it with everything I own. That’s the thing about chore coats is they’re versatile. You can wear one with a more Americana ivy look, with a heritage fit, or even with street wear. It’s the adjustable wrench of menswear. That’s why I think it will always be relevant. I wore one 15 years ago with my raw denim and desert boots, and I wear one now with brands like 18east trousers and paraboots. It works with everything!
-Daniel aka @Out_of_Indigo
Fin
Wow, that was one of the most in depth works of writing I have ever done. If you are reading this, I would like to seriously thank you for reading this far, and coming along for this long journey. When I started this blog I stated that deep dives like this would be the foundation of what I’m trying to accomplish. Hours upon hours of research when into this project, and I did my best to synthesize what I found to be the most interesting into an acceptable length. What kept amazing me was how at the beginning of this research, one detail sent me down a rabbit hole of information, and that one sent me down another one, and-on-and-on. So I truly hope that you learned something interesting from this deep dive, and maybe it made you think about what other clothes you own, whether new or vintage, and where they might come from.
This is something I do purely for fun, no profit is made from this, this is simply a combination of my passions for history, clothing, writing and research. Any and all support is appreciated in spreading this platform. Finally I’d like to thank my friends Jon, Arun and Daniel for chiming in and sharing their take on this hyper-specific topic, it really means a lot guys. WAW will be back very soon with more content, both literary and photography, so stay tuned.
All the best,
-D
Links:
Image Gallery: https://ibb.co/album/34vx06
Youtube mini-doc about Levi’s Sack coats
Levi’s Sack Coat restoration video
French book about workwear: https://www.theavantmag.com/avant-magazine-shop/p/an-anthology-of-french-workwear
Great Etsy shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/SASAKIYOHINTEN?ref=l2-shop-info-name
END chore coat selection: https://www.endclothing.com/us/catalogsearch/results?q=chore%20jacket
GEM vintage chore coat results: https://gem.app/search?terms=French%20chore%20jacket